Surin Islands

The Moken Sea Nomads are an ancient nomadic sea people who have lived between the Mergui archipelago of Burma and the islands of Thailand’s North Andaman coast for thousands of years. Traditionally nomadic, they would spend most of their time out at sea and moored in sheltered locations during the monsoon season.

In recent years, the Moken have been encouraged to settle to gain Thai citizenship. They are now located in a village called Bon Bay on Koh Surin Tai. You’ll see their spirit poles as you arrive, watching out over the sea.

The Moken are hunters and gatherers and live in harmony with nature. They have a great knowledge and respect for nature, and worship the spirits of the Earth. They rely upon their environment for food, shelter, and for the materials used for making their traditional kabang sailing houseboats.

Their traditional way of life and culture is under threat in many ways, meaning they are no longer able to live purely from the land and from the ocean. Many have to seek employment to earn money to be able to live, which isn’t easy when you have no citizenship, no rights, and suffer from discrimination. The plight of the Moken is a complicated one and highlights the issues surrounding traditional culture and an ever-encroaching developed world.

The Moken do not have a written language, but are good at other languages including Thai and Yawi Malaysian. Their history is retained within oral folklore, passed down from generation to generation. Every April, during the Lobong festival, the Moken worship their ancestors and ask the spirits to take care and protect them.

You are encouraged to visit the Moken, but there is a better way of doing this than simply arriving, walking round the village, and staring at people as they go about their daily lives (which is what normally happens). There are few economic opportunities for the Moken, so if you can, rent a Moken long-tail boat to visit the island.

An easy way to contribute is to purchase their hand-woven pandanus leaf mats and bracelets or their intricate model kabang boats. Don’t be tight and haggle — they are very cheap already. With the people that you see, make eye contact and smile, as you are a guest in their village, not in a museum.

Also ask about the Chok Madah Nature/Culture Trail in the Interpretive Center at the Moken village, Large Bon Bay. This is an educational trek across the island highlighting Moken ethno botany, which describes many of the plants traditionally used by the Moken for everything from medicine and food to tools and boat building.

A Moken guide will take you round the trail and the village, highlighting points of interest; you’ll be amazed at their local wisdom. Andaman Discoveries can provide a booklet to accompany this trail, so let us know if you would like a copy before you leave. Hiring a Moken guide also encourages the tribe to embrace and take pride in their fading culture. Don’t give money or modern sweets directly to the children, as they will start to expect it from all visitors and develop a sweet tooth. If you want to make a donation, fresh fruit, vegetables, and rice is much more useful.

IIt’s inspiring to see that pristine paradise still exists, and it’s important for visitors to be sensitive to its conservation. I was grateful for the advice about the best way to visit the Sea Nomads. I felt I had the opportunity to connect and contribute, not stand and stare. – Balle, Volunteer